Some Stores Shall Stay Shut

Tomorrow may be break-free day for many people on our island as Phase 2 of the Circuit Breaker begins, but those planning to go shopping will find some stores still closed

Uniqlo annoucement

Many people, ready for tomorrow’s resumption of some semblance of social life, are surprised that Uniqlo announced around six this evening on their Instagram page, “We are not open yet.” It continued to say, “Uniqlo is not rushing to open on 19 June 2020, Friday.” No official word was released by the company at the time of this post. Majority of the comments appeared to approve or support Uniqlo’s decision, agreeing that there is no need to scramble to commence its offline business. The brand added, “We will announce our store opening dates in the upcoming few days through our social media channels, website and app.” Some fans, however, are disappointed that this confirmed Uniqlo would not launch their Airism face mask here, as it will in Japan nationwide tomorrow.

While Uniqlo resists opening their physical retail stores, compatriot brand Muji is laying the welcome mat, although one outlet will be shuttered permanently. The brand announced yesterday that they have closed down their Marina Square store. Through IG, it said, “We regret to inform that Muji Marina Square has ceased its operation.” Muji has not officially commented on the closure of the branch, but some observers feel that Marina Square is “not looking good” despite the last centre-wide refurbishment. Still, IG commentators were disappointed that the store is no more. One ‘amsingapore’ wrote, “That was a favorite branch for many of us. Muji shouldn’t have given up that location”.

Store closures were expected even before the easing of the Circuit Breaker measures. Back in April, Esprit announced permanently shutting all their retail operations here. Robinsons ended their presence in the west by choosing not to remain at Jem. But Muji closing down any store is unexpected as it is believed to be one of the most popular Japanese brands here. One representative director of the parent company in Japan told The Business Times last year that sales in Singapore have been rising steadily each year. He added, “We believe in the growth in the Singapore market.”

Muji announcement

Many stores have announced they’re opening tomorrow. Club 21, in the middle of an online end-of-season sale, will welcome shoppers on the first day of Phase 2, according to an IG Story statement. So is the related emporium Dover Street Market Singapore. Surrender, the streetwear headquarters to many, confirmed on IG that they will open tomorrow. Louis Vuitton announced rather discreetly that they, too, will open, but shoppers are told to “schedule an appointment”. It is not unreasonable to assume that if Louis Vuitton will be opening, other brands under LVMH will be too.

All malls, it appears, will resume full operations as well. Paragon made no mention on its website about what will happen tomorrow, but did say one can “Shop & Dine With A Peace of Mind”. ION Orchard announced, “We Are Ready To Welcome You Back”. So did Wisma Atria: “Welcoming You Back Safely”. Takashimaya Shopping Centre communicated no happy news on their website or Facebook page (its last post was on 6 April), but it will likely open since Louis Vuitton did not say that its Taka store won’t. Over at the Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, “nearly 200 stores, including F&B tenanted outlets, will be re-opened at the start”. Mostly happy news, it would appear, for those who have been deprived of retail therapy for this long. It remains to be seen if the revenge spending that seized Shanghai and Seoul after those cities opened will play out here too.

Screen grabs: respective IG page

Art In Street Style

Posted by Style On The Dot

Surrender collab pic 1

Whether fashion can be considered art is a constant debate among practitioners on both sides of the divide. There may not ever be real consensus over the matter, but that has not deterred Surrender from presenting fashion as art. To augment its status as Singapore’s premier outlet for street style, the store has put together a display of nine one-piece-each-only jackets, the DRx Romanelli X Cali Thornhill De Witt Capsule Collection for Surrender as evidence that art is very much alive in street wear.

And they are priced like art—S$4,750 each, a sales person told us. Well, that may not be so staggering if you consider the price of a Gucci denim jacket embroidered with flowers, butterflies, and birds: US$4,950. Who are Surrender’s collaborators to daringly ask for such a handsome sum?

DRx (Darren) Romanelli is an LA-based designer and marketing wunderkind associated with the 2014 revival of the New York sneaker brand British Knights although his shoe collaborations go back to 2010 when he paired with Converse to amp up the Chuck Taylor All Star And Stripes. Those familiar with Japanese street wear may know Mr Romanelli as the designer behind Sophnet’s F.C.R.B Collection, also known as Football Club Real Bristol—only thing is this club is an imaginary one dreamed up Sophnet’s founder Hirofumi Kiyonaga. But so credible and legit is F.C.R.B Collection that Nike has an on-going collaboration with the brand. Interestingly, Surrender had been a stockist of both Sophnet and F.C.R.B Collection, which may explain the rather cliquish approach to their merchandising.

Surrender collab pic 2

Cali Thornhill De Witt is a Canadian who was relocated to Los Angeles when he was three. As a teenager, he was linked to Courtney Love’s band Hole after touring with them. And has largely been a part of the music scene in LA, having worked for Geffen Records and, later, his own record company Teenage Teardrops. He has also directed music videos and designed album art, and is known as a “cult artist”, with works that seem to mirror skate life and lean heavily on text, such as “Crying at the Orgy”: an all-round, multi-tasking creative type. But the largest feather to his cap was designing the wildly successful merchandise for Kanye West’s The Life of Pablo tour. Unsurprisingly, both he and Mr Romanelli are friends.

The jackets, therefore, have a whiff of the hotchpotch perspective of US West Coast music, fashion and art scene (which Hedi Slimane was—notoriously?—smitten with), calculated to be visibly and achingly cool. All reversible, they are made from different clothing, or what the original Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal called “found pieces”. It is not clear if these are used clothes, but if they are, it is not surprising: Mr Romanelli is, as Hypebeast calls him, “the mad scientist of vintage clothing.”

Each of them—from hoodie to blouson—sports a white letter painted conspicuously on the back and they come together to spell the name of the store. Hence, the nine. Placed together, they do make a rather compelling installation piece. But are they really art? We leave that to you to decide.

Photos: Galerie Gombak

Giving In To The New Surrender

Posted by Style On The Dot

surrender-entrance

With a new location, a store need not keep to its old self. Surrender has taken that approach. If you think that you can still experience one of Singapore’s best regarded men’s wear store the way it was, it may be best to just hold on to your memories.

Flanked by Off-White on one side and Christian Dada on the other, the latest version of Surrender, previously known as #SRD268, is part of a retail triumvirate that dominates the first floor of 268 Orchard Road, the building whose market positioning is unknown. It also seems to have absorbed the street-style vibe of its immediate neighbours. “This isn’t the Surrender we remember,” a couple concurred as they browse quietly in the store on a Friday afternoon. Or could it be due to a loss of familiarity?

That, in itself, is not necessarily a negative, but the success of the over-two-decades-old Surrender, although fairly low-key, is based on a loyal fan base. The new space, designed by the Singapore collective Asylum, could either distance or entice. About a month after it opened, without fanfare, we’re still not sure where we stand.

surrender-entrance-2

To be certain, this Orchard Road store is not unattractive, but it is no doubt strikingly different from its previous form. The first thing that hits you is the lack of warmth. Here, unlike in Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade, the space is based on the black-and-white-wall, concrete-floor variety, which clearly contrasts the former’s wood/carpet/cabinetry amalgamation.

The layout isn’t so straightforward either. A circular central area, within which appears to be a sort of event space, is demarcated by curved, not-level walls—the spot, while effectively creates an otherwise non-existent zone, distracts shoppers from noticing its regular shop confines. Lower-case-N-shaped, railing-style metal racks line the perimeter and curved walls, hinting at an industrial bent, but could be there to lend the space the presently important street cred.

surrender-interior surrender-interior-2

On these racks, the clothes—now including some women’s wear—at a quick glance also seem divided from the former mix, which was heavy on Japanese labels. No doubt, the best-selling Neighbourhood and some compatriot names are there (a reduced total), but they seem overshadowed by new European and American brands that appear to bank on edginess than substance to stand out. There’s also a Goth undercurrent that, to the store’s followers, is not a part of the aesthetic of the past. Could this be the consequence of merging the original Surrender and Salon by Surrender (formerly at MBS)?

It is tempting to assume that Surrender’s parent company D’League is taking a different path. The opening of both their Off-White and Christian Dada stores in the same location hinted at Surrender’s meandering off their former track. We just did not see it sooner. But the change is not all that surprising when savvy retailers are expected to react to shifts in the marketplace. If the traffic at Off-White is any indication, the streetwear-and athleisure-heavy merchandising of Surrender is a logical progression for the business.

surrender-interior-3 Surrender interior 4.jpg

What, perhaps, is more alluring is the new sneaker space. Here, you’ll find sneakerhead faves such as Visvim and limited-issue Nikes and every rich kid’s preferred footwear Buscemi. They’re all arranged neatly on rows and rows of shelves, rather than mostly on the floor at its former location. This part is a separate cocoon of a space and, despite its fluorescent-white light, feels the comfiest and most inviting.

Surrender, the way we see it, isn’t an update; it’s a reincarnation.

The new Surrenderstore is at 268 Orchard Road. Photos: Galerie Gombak

No White Flag Even When Surrendering To Closure

Posted by Style On The Dot

Surrender pic 1

One of Singapore’s best men’s wear stores shall be no more. Surrender at Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade will halt its operations next week, on 23 August, but its closure does not mark the complete end of Singapore’s pioneer men’s wear retailer. According to the company’s farewell message to customers, Surrender will morph into a new project, cryptically named #SRD268, at the end of the year.

It requires no special talent to guess that SRD is Surrender abbreviated, and 268—on Orchard Road—is where the new store will be situated. The Raymond Woo-designed building (unnamed, just 268 Orchard Road) that occupies the former Yen San Building site is already habitat to other brands under Surrender’s parent company D’League: namely Christian Dada and the soon-to-open Off-White by Virgil Abloh. It looks like #SRD268 shall complete the triumvirate that occupies the entire ground floor of the glass-and-steel building.

Surrender’s departure may perhaps signal the fading of fashion cred for Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade, where the store has made the latter home for the past 6 years. The first men’s clothier with edge to open at Raffles Hotel’s retail wing, Surrender follows the steps of brands such as Prada, Louis Vuitton, APC, Visvim, and Front Row to depart what may be considered one of our city’s most atmospheric shopping destinations. Only L’Amoire now stands (without a fashion-strong neighbour), but for how long?

Surrender pic 2

Surrender’s exit is, perhaps, to be expected. According to those who are familiar with the store’s operation team, the end of the lease was cited as reason, as well as the Arcade’s “slow traffic”. But some observers feel that it would serve Raffles Hotel’s or Qatari owner Katara Hospitality’s interest to retain long-time tenants such as Surrender. Others feel that Surrender should leave as Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade has been in a dismal state for quite a while, with tenants complaining of poor upkeep.

Some Surrender customers have said that, for them, there’s no reason to visit the Arcade other than to go to their favourite store. Surrender, on level 2, is on the same floor as the Long Bar, where Raffles Hotel touts it as the birthplace of Singapore Sling. In the past year, it is only here that you’ll sense some buzz, as visitors experience what the hotel calls “one of the truest rites of passage of travel”—drinking the Singapore Sling and flinging peanut shells on the floor—grounds which the hotel proudly claims to be “the only place in Singapore where ‘littering’ is permitted.”

Surrender did not enjoy a location this posh when they started. Conceived by Earn Chen, the creative director of hospitality group Potato Head Folk, back in the ’90s, it began as a little skate-influenced fashion and footwear shop in Far East Plaza during a time when the mall had a vestige of cool, unlike now. Mr Chen, who, according to Apple Daily in 2014, was “seeing” the Hong Kong actress Cecilia Cheung, told the media that after a visit to New York City with friends, he was inspired by the “skateboarding, hip-hop, alternative lifestyle” scene there and decided to open a store that Singapore had not, until then, seen. And it was a store with a difference even when T-shirts and sneakers dominated. It was our first taste of refined and elevated urban style.

Surrender pic 3

After Surrender moved out of Far East Plaza, it shifted into a shop-house unit on Devonshire Road before relocating in 2010 to Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade, where it roosted for half-a-dozen years. It was here, during the Arcade’s grander days, that Surrender truly consolidated its standing as the premier men’s wear store with a difference. The store was eventually sold to Dave Tan, the man behind Richard Mille in Southeast Asia and D’League, and is managed by his 24-year-old son.

What makes Surrender unique in the men’s fashion retail scene here is the store’s merchandise mix—it is unabashedly skewed towards Japanese street wear. When once only an air ticket to Tokyo could connect you to brands such as Neighborhood, WTAPS, Uniform Experiment, Sophnet, and Bristol, Surrender was the vital outpost. And soon even more desirable brands joined the stable: Undercover, Nanamica, and Visvim (which, in 2012, briefly had its own free-standing store, also in the Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade). When the American artisanal label Geoffrey B Small was added, Surrender’s standing scaled many rungs. All this in a vintage/work-room interior that has more in common with Tokyo retailers such as Journal Standard than the Euro-centric swank typical of our local high-end stores.

While Surrender’s street style strengthened, a pricier Salon by Surrender in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands opened in 2013 (after debuting in Shanghai at the Mario Botta-designed Twelve at Hengshan hotel a little earlier). Here, refined British labels such as Casely Hayford, luxury street-wear brands such as Hood by Air, and expensive sneakers such as those by Buscemi (“obnoxiously high quality goods”!) grabbed the attention of those willing to pay top dollar. The Japanese leaning of Surrender was not discernible. The Salon was, however, a few steps ahead of Surrender: it closed some months back.

It would seem Surrender is now returning to and concentrating its efforts on Orchard Road. According to the company, “project #SRD268, albeit aimed to encompass an entirely new distinct perspective on retail, fashion, lifestyle and art, will still stay firmly rooted in Surrender’s forward-thinking attitude.” Sources told us that some of the existing brands stocked at the Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade store will be dropped. It is still hazy which will exit Singapore altogether. Still, hopeful are many that the new Surrender, even when abbreviated to letters and numbers, will not be short of those labels that make them give in to the store in the first place.

For a foretaste of #SRD268, visit its pop-up store at level 2, Mandarin Gallery. Photos: Galerie Gombak

Leaves In The Wind On A Shirt

Posted by Style On The Dot

The Japanese have a way with describing fashion details unlike others. Nanamica is no exception. This pattern of a cotton shirt from the Spring/Summer 2015 collection is called ‘Wind Print’. While it’s clear to us that the all-over motif is that of a leaf, the brand has chosen to call out to the unseen. Nevertheless, it is a handsome shirt, perfect for those windless days, when even a hint of coolness is very much welcomed.

Nanamica ‘Wind Print’ shirt, SGD540, is available at Surrender, Raffles Hotel Arcade

There’s Never Too Many Totes!

Posted by Style On The Dot

A tote was, at one time, considered not too attractive to carry. The fact that it is an offspring of a shopping bag added to its lo-tech, no-school standing. But, in the end (or at present), practicality wins. The tote has become a firm favourite, one bag sans frills to hold all our worldly posessions when these are not atop shelves or kept in cupboards. And for those who must have a tote with clearly masculine leanings, there’s this roomy version by Japanese label Nanamica.

Going by the odd misnomer Briefcase, this is one tote with an unabashedly sporty personality. It is, in fact, a Nanamica signature style. What sets this apart is its roll-down opening, lending it an outdoorsy, gone-camping touch. The body is constructed with Cordura, that tough, water-repelling fabric so loved by Japanese bag makers (after Harris tweed!), and secured by leather buckled straps. Any executive with an office out in the woods? Or Pulau Ubin, maybe?

Nanamica was founded by Eiichiro Homma in 2003, and has largely remained one of those labels hankered after mostly by folks in the know. Eiichiro Homma is considered one of Japan’s most revered menswear designers and always regarded as the creative force that spearheaded the North Face Purple Label (exclusively sold in Japan), the precursor to The North Face Standard, currently considered to be the country’s best kept style secrets.

With an approach to design that draws from outdoor wear and gear, Nanamica has always captured the Jap spirit of merging utility heft with near-traditional designs. These are not wayward styles but amalgamations that are practical yet stylish.

Modern classics in the making? You bet.

Nanamica Briefcase tote, SGD 420, is available at Surrender, Raffles Hotel Arcade

When Two-In-One Is Just Better

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Regular readers of our blog will no doubt realise that we have a weakness for classic clothes with a Japanese spin. Here’s another one: a shirt-meets-sweat-top combo by Tokyo-based label Uniform Experiment. As seen above, this is quite simply a shirt of striped cotton broadcloth atop the bottom half of a cotton sweat top. The sum of the uncomplicated parts leans toward the current obsession with athletic wear, yet the reference is not in your face. And that’s the beauty here: it’s wearable quirk. There’s also the likely reaction to donning this: “what kind of shirt is that?” And the rejoinder could be, “One with a split personality disorder!”

United Experiment is a label of the casual wear company Soph, which spawned the label Sophnet, a favourite of the lifestyle and culture magazine Monocle. Started by designer Hirofumi Kiyonaga in 1998, Sophnet has, since 2002 when the name was established, become a brand that produces with inputs from Japanese and American artists. United Experiment, the brother label, is cut from the same cloth, but with a younger, street-centred edge. Experimental, not quite, but united they are.

Uniform Experiment cotton pullover shirt, SGD460, is available at Surrender, Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade. Photo collage: Just So

Tennis Shoes That Won’t Meet a Court

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Now that classic tennis shoes are seriously enjoying life outside the likes of Le Stade Roland Garros, more brands are pushing theirs to the fore. Nike, not wanting to prance in the shadow of competitor Adidas, has also up the profile of its classic tennis shoe (confuse not with Federer’s souped up monstrosity!). But the ones to own follow the current craze for mostly-white versions, save the heel tab. That means Nike’s instantly recognisable Swoosh is obscured, just as in this pair, a collaborative effort with Fragment.

It may be debatable if the all-white tennis shoe trend really began with the re-start of the life of the Adidas beauty, the Stan Smith, but there’s no denying that even Nike’s updates kicks appropriated some of the ideas of the former. Perforated outline of the logo, for instance? Whatever, the case, there’s no denying that this is a handsome shoe. Fragment, the Japanese design collective headed by Hiroshi Fujiwara, has approach this reissue with a light touch, offering sneakerheads a minimalist shoe with maximum style.

This is not the first time the Nike Tennis Classic is re-imagined. Supreme has placed their stamp on it last year, and just last month, Dover Street Market released a stark, truly pristine version as part of their 10th anniversary limited edition merchandise. The white tennis shoe isn’t going away any time soon.

Nike X Fragment tennis classic, SGD190, is available at Surrender, Raffles Hotel Shopping Arcade