Several US influencers were in China to “inspect” Shein’s factories. One of them was especially delighted with—and gratified by—what she saw, but that quickly spawned online backlash

Dani DMC showing off the Shein cabin bag gifted to her for her trip to China the brand paid for. (Cropped and reoriented) screen shot: danidmc/Instagram

The Chinese fast fashion brand Shein recently took a bunch of American influencers on a junket so that the invitees could endorse the label’s large, modern production facilities in 广州 (guangzhou, China). Among the excited visitors was Dani DMC—also known as Dani Carbonari—who shared videos of her trip to the Chinese factories on Instagram, but not everyone was as bowled over as she was (comments to her posts have been turned off). She told her followers that “getting to see the whole process of Shein clothing from beginning to end with my own two eyes was so important for me.” She did not say why. Unsurprisingly, she was “really impressed to see the working conditions” at one of the facilities of “the leading manufacturer for Shein”. They wanted her to be awed and she reacted duly. The following day, she was at what was identified as the Shein innovation centre. She said that the place was “over 6,000 square feet” and it “blew my mind.” She added that there was “so much technology”. Big-city kid turned country girl?

Born in Chicago, Ms Carbonari has lived in New York and now resides in Los Angeles, and spends considerable time showing off her body and booty in scanty clothes and skimpier underclothes on social media. She appeared to be someone who knew very little about how people outside of the US live and work, let alone what a garment factory floor looks like. In all likelihood, it was her first visit to China and the first time she interfaced with predominantly Chinese people around her. That she was so quickly galvanised to applaud Shein should be kudos to the brand’s PR machinery. A graduate in communications studies at Loyola University in Chicago, she calls herself an “investigative journalist”, yet it seemed that she took what was presented to her at face value. Despite commercial success globally, Shein has been constantly criticised for their questionable production and labour practices. There is the possibility—although remote—that Ms Carbonari was unaware of the company’s business reputation. Or, she may have, like so many of her fashion-consuming peers, chosen to ignore the flak in order to continually buy cheap clothes. A Shein dress can be had for as little as S$7.

A Shein factory that Dani Carbonari visited and was “impressed” with. Screen shot: danidmc/Instagram

In the latest allegations from a 2022 report by UK’s Channel 4, an undercover worker was sent to two identified factories to film the working conditions in the facilities where Shein merchandise was allegedly produced. Shein was found to have embraced uncommonly strict HR policies, such as harsh penalties—pay-cut of “two-thirds of their daily wage”—if mistakes on what they were tasked to do were made. Women were reportedly washing their hair during lunch break (presumably because they had no time to do it at home). At both factories, workers committed to “up to 18-hour days” and awarded “one day off a month” were apparently common. Channel 4 revealed the shockingly low remuneration as well. At one factory, workers reportedly earned 4,000 yuan (or about S$750) a month, producing 500 pieces of clothing per day, while another paid their sewing staff “the equivalent of five (US) cents per item”.

It is possible that Ms Carbonari and the other excursion participants did not watch the much talked-about Channel 4 investigation. Content creation, as we’re often told, is time-consuming. Still, it is rather odd that for someone who proudly identifies as an “investigative journalist”, she allowed herself to be wooed and wiled by Shein and willingly accepted what was gleefully fed to her. It is understandable that since this was a trip that was paid for by Shein (and included “a welcome dinner”, as Ms Carbonari shared), she would need to say positive things, even succumb to spin. Marketers will call it puffery. But as she boasted her “investigative” ability in the narration, it is not unreasonable to expect some probing. Rather, she was taken in by what she was shown, and found Shein to be “such a developed and complex company” and, as she droned on, “so beautiful to see first hand.” Even the brand’s corporate kit won’t be able to wax more lyrically.

Ms Carbonari posing in what appeared to be a Shein lobby prior to a “welcome dinner”. Screen shot: danidmc/Instagram

Ms Carbonari did not get to meet those workers the Channel 4 team and their local informant saw and spoke to. Rather, she claimed that she questioned a female staff who was a cutter: “I was able to interview a woman (face not shown) who worked in the fabric cutting department… and she answered them (her questions) honestly and authentically. She was very surprised of the rumours that have been spreading in the US.” Rumours. Accompany the factory-visit video, Ms Carbonari wrote in the comments of the post, “They (Shein) are aware of every single rumor and instead of staying quiet they are fighting with all of their power to not only show us the truth but continue to improve and be the best they can possibly be.” The plus-size model, who started to pose professionally in 2017, also calls herself a “confidence activist”. Was she helping Shein gain confidence and, concurrently, also prod the brand’s customers to bolster theirs in Shein?

In another video that showed her journey from LA to Guangzhou, she added that “the Shein US and China team welcomed us with open arms”. It surprised no one, therefore, that in those arms she was coddled. She was courted to adulate. That influencers often paint cosy pictures of themselves and the brands they’re paid to endorse is not surprising. But to be able to be so upbeat about an organisation that availed only what they planned to be seen in a very short time seems superficial and inauthentic, to use influencer parlance. Dani Carbonari wrote, “I feel happy knowing that I have such amazing people making the clothing I wear and that they are just as passionate with their work as I am. I’m so grateful I got to see them in their environment, speak to them, & embrace them.” If that meant she could continue wearing Shein guilt-free, then the Chinese brand; however often they are called out for undesirable business, operational, production practices; has succeeded again.