Fashion From Her Makeup Bag

Veteran makeup artist Pat McGrath has gone from painting faces to designing clothes. Does a flair for pretty pigments mean a talent with paper patterns?

Pat McGrath Labs AW 2017

By Mao Shan Wang

I know there are many people in the creative field who turn to fashion design to express themselves and to make money, but I have yet heard of a makeup artist who takes that route. Sure, there are those who try their hand at retailing clothes, such as Yuan Sng, celebrity makeup artist and one of the partners behind the charming pop-up for K-pop fashion, StyleLoft 3. But a makeup-artist-turn-designer is as rare as permanent lipstick.

Pat McGrath, I presume, likes the appeal of this rarity. In the fashion world, she’s a brilliant, creative, sort-after makeup artist, but she’s not the only one. Her fashion venture may, thus, place her in the firmament of the uncommon. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same about her debut ‘Apparel 001’ collection, launched on the multi-channel platform known as Pat McGrath Labs—according to her website, “a playground… to introduce divinely disruptive discoveries”. And how many labs does she have or need? Even Nikelab has only one!

I suppose there could be two: one for makeup and one for apparel. Ms McGrath has already achieved “cult status”—as the media describe it—with her own makeup line, launched in 2015. But her fashion collection does not look like it is going to disrupt the business the way her cosmetics supposedly had. At launch, her first item, Gold 001 Pigment, impressed both pro and novice users alike. An intensely-hued dust that would be more the stuff of Halloween than even the CFDA Awards nights, Gold 001 Pigment can be used for the eye or for sprinkling moon dust on the face and casting starlight on body, or, when blended with an attendant Mehron Mixing Liquid (Mehron is the go-to stage makeup brand favoured by companies such as Cique du Soliel), can give eyes, lips, and nose (according to the Pat McGrath video demo) the gold of gold leaf, so realistic that only when standing next to a Thai Buddha statue will the wearer look like she has applied, well, makeup.

Pat McGrath

In comparison, the 8-piece ‘Apparel 001’ is somewhat underwhelming. However her people may wish to spin it, this is plainly atheleisure in the vein of Alexander Wang’s dalliances with Adidas. Or, the articles of clothing any skate fan desirous of his own fashion line would put out: T-shirts, hoodie, and bomber jacket. So much for variety, or even new category of clothing. The text running down the sleeves of the long-sleeved T-shirts, even with some in Japanese fonts, offers little to ponder over. Neither is there a colour range to talk about since everything, save one white tee, is in black. Seriously, these could be tops supplied by Fruits of the Loom, supported by a good metallic embossing facility.

Sure, the main motif of a golden eye, described to be Egyptian, and could pass of as a wing with an eye, is striking, in the way the logo of Red Wing Shoes is. If marketed well, Ms McGrath’s dramatic eye-logo, already proven to be more than one-dimensional as she has demonstrated its applicability on real peepers, could be the next totally desirable seven-letters-in-a-red-rectangle Supreme trade mark. But to get there, Ms McGrath has to work on the merchandise—for now, appearing unisex. What I see is this: they’re either fashion-y merchandise from the gift shop of a Cairo Museum, or concert merch of a performance (Ms McGrath no doubt excels) that Kanye West is simply better at. Either way, there’s no place, as yet, in my wardrobe for ‘Apparel 001’. And, to be sure, I am no Pat McGrath groupie.

Pat McGrath Labs ‘Apparel 001’ launches in Dover Street Market New York this Thursday. A spontaneous check with a staff member of the DSM here turned up “What’s that? We don’t know”. Admittedly, I should not have asked. The choice of DSM as launch pad is interesting: products sold here are often indication that they’re endorsed by arguably one of the most successful brick and mortar retailers in the world, and may reach a better audience that matters. For those who must cop the line (prices from USD60), click Pat McGrath’s website, and, as printed on the clothing, “Use Without Caution”.

Photos: Pat McGrath Labs

When They Say July, It’s Really The End Of The Month

DSMS homepage 22 Jul 2015

The suspense is over. Finally, we have a date. After weeks of checking at the Dover Street Market Singapore (DSMS) website, we get a confirmed day on the calendar of the store’s opening: this coming Saturday, the 29th.

The sole photo used in the homepage is a hint at what DSMS looks like, but we can’t quite make it out. Watch this space to see what we think of DSM’s first Southeast Asian store, or where Comme des Garçons die-hards can reach nirvana.

Yes, There Will Be A DSMSG, Just As There Is A DSMNY!

Possible DSMSG logo!SOTD imagines what the Dover Street Market Singapore logo may look like

So it’s true. Adrian Joffe wasn’t leading us on when he parted with SOTD during a CDG party last month by saying, “See you in DSM Singapore!”

According to a Channel NewsAsia report this evening, Dover Street Market’s (DSM) Singapore store (and Southeast Asia’s first) will debut in Dempsey Road. The project will be spearheaded by Como Lifestyle, part of Club 21 owner Christina Ong’s Como Group, which has largely been establishing hotels and resorts around the world such as The Halkin in London and Uma in Bhutan and Bali, all offering “luxury with a deep respect for authenticity”, as indicated in a company statement.

It is still unclear if the store here will be known as Dover Street Market Singapore, Dover Street Market Demsey, or Dover Street Market COMO, but DSM will be part of COMO Demsey, a multi-concept destination where visitors will also be able to find eateries that include a new restaurant by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, as well as COMO Cuisine (featuring dishes from COMO hotels and resorts) and Candlenut, the COMO-backed Peranakan restaurant started by chef Malcom Lee. Apparently, the tender to develop Blocks 17 and 18 of Demsey Road in a cluster of Tanglin Village, where COMO Demsey will dominate, was conducted in August this year. No opening date was reported.

World DSMsSingapore ready to join the DSM family

DSM, considered to be one of the world’s most exciting retail concepts, was conceived by the founder/designer of Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo, in 2004, and managed by her husband Adrian Joffe. When it first opened in London’s Dover Street (hence its name) in Mayfair, many retail observers were surprised that the couple had chosen to situate their quirky store in what was essentially a lane that had no retail presence of significance. (DSM Singapore’s Demsey address is, thus, in keeping with the retailer’s preference for more obscure places in a bustling city, except, perhaps, Tokyo.) DSM has since moved to a much larger building in Haymarket, south of Piccadilly Circus.

In its previous location, it was a favourite stop among many Singaporean fashionistas holidaying in London. When one of our correspondents visited the store back in 2011, he met the one-time fashion photographer Kirby Koh (he was working there), who exclaimed enthusiastically, “I keep seeing so many Singaporeans here. Last week, it was Dick Lee!”

wp-1450343532057.jpgOne of the most sort-after items is the limited-run Supreme X Dover Street Market, available only at DSM. Photo: DSM

Since its London store, there has been DSMs in Ginza, Beijing (known as Beijing I.T Market, but is conceptually similar to DSM), and New York. It is hoped that our very own DSM, which will no doubt add much needed boost to retail excitement here, isn’t going to be a scaled-down version of the DSMs of the world. We already hear fans say, “We want everything, including all the DSM-only merchandise!”

Until then, watch this space for updates.


Adrian Joffe: Serenity Amid The Excitement

Adrian Joffe B&WThe welcome token at the Comme des Garçons party two Fridays ago was an oddity. If you’re dressed in CDG, you’ll receive a gold chain with a pendant bearing the name of the house, spelled out in its entirety (including the cédille of the ‘c’ in Garçon as a star). People seemed amused. Think gold chains, and you recall Run DMC. Yes, there’s also LL Cool J, and Eric B and Rakim. Furthest from your mind is anything associated with the work of the vanguard of the Japanese avant garde. Sure, CDG does some outré stuff, but chunky gold chain? Surely that’s in the domain of Jeremy Scott!

Of course, for those in the know, there has never been anything straightforward about CDG. Yet, the Comme look is so distinctive and recognisable that aficionados would not need a flashy gold chain to identify the label’s clothes to one another. Glitziness, however, was what CDG was offering to its guests as a badge of honour. What cryptic message was there? Perhaps, there was none. CDG has been consistent in letting its fans construe a certain image of itself that many will miss even the most evident irony flashing in their face. This was no dumb bling. Gleaming gold against an essentially matte CDG aesthetic is true to the intriguing contradiction that has kept the brand so alluring for the past 34 years, since its first showing in Paris in 1981.

CDG chain and pendantParty favours at the Comme des Garçons bash

In the middle of the I’m-in-more-outrageous-CDG mode of comparison and admiration, another incongruity: Adrian Joffe. CEO of Comme des Garçons Co, Ltd, Mr Joffe moved among the near-clones of CDG customers like a priest among his wayward flock. He was all serene smiles in the company of the fashionably dead-serious and achingly plastic. In the seeming frivolity of the occasion, here was a counterpoint, cool and collected. A week earlier, it was transmitted that Mr Joffe and “a team from Japan” would grace the CDG in-boutique do, a sort-of annual affair that brings fans into the store at the Hilton Gallery for some socialising and shopping. Meeting the man, for some of us, was the reason to attend.

Suited in nondescript black—possibly from the Comme des Garçons Homme Deux line, Mr Joffe offered no outward clue to his connection to the person that has been described as the most successful Japanese designer of modern times: he’s married to the founder of the brand Rei Kawakubo for 23 years. Just as CDG requires no caricature of itself for identification, Mr Joffe needs no obvious get-up to be his wife’s spokesman and interpreter. In person, he could pass off as Lord Voldemort, but one unencumbered by Horcruxes, who has come to peace with what the Buddhists would say is the transient nature of life. He conducts himself like a Japanese salaryman in the company of superiors, with reverence and immense courtesy. In the middle of a conversation with us, when he was pulled away to attend to something undisclosed, he said calmly, “Excuse me.”, then turned to add, “Stay here. I’ll be back.”

CDG party 1Guests outside Comme des Garçons, Hilton Gallery

Rare is the person of such stature who could have used an opportunity to break away from an unimportant conversation but did not. As he walked towards the brightness that emanated from the CDG store, where he was required, it was a little hard to immediately discern the synergy between this small, affable man and the giant of an independently held company that is Comme des Garçons. Built and geniality clearly do not determine how one thrives in the cut-throat world of the business of fashion. Mr Joffe, who hails from South Africa, has been with CDG since 1987, when he was appointed the commercial director of the brand’s European markets. In 1992, he married Ms Kawakubo. Uncommon is their marital, as well as business compatibility. It was through their combined vision, and his verve and strength that saw the conception of the world’s first pop-up retail format, the Guerrilla Store that debuted in Berlin in 2004; and, in the same year, the iconic multi-label emporium, Dover Street Market in London’s Mayfair.

The Guerrilla Store—including various iterations in Singapore—is no longer part of the CDG stable of stores. Its eventual demise is not, many believe, due to loss of interest on the part of the owners, but the omnipresence and overuse of the pop-up concept. Dover Street Market, presently a four-city fashion destination, took the experiential component of the Guerrilla Stores, gave it brand plurality and, more importantly, permanence of locality. DSM (the abbreviation is preferred by habitués) was then nothing the market has seen before. It was a confluence of different styles from different cities, but all had one commonality: difference. Within its multi-storey space (in DSM New York, there are seven levels), a market spirit exists, in the old, almost souk-like sense of the word: variety can come together to provide a lively mix of products that arrive from shared values.

DSM LondonDover Street Market in London. Photo: Dover Street Market International

Walk into any DSM, and it’s immediately apparent that the store is poles apart from others. Inside, it’s rare not to be inspired, not to feel that you’re in another retail planet, not to succumb to the urge to spend. It’s a visual treat and engaging pleasure, especially for those jaded by the same-sameness of the retail offering in many cities trying to project a shoppers’ paradise image, including Singapore. DSM allows one to feel, to sense, to react, to wonder, to marvel, to touch, to feel. Mr Joffe told Suzy Menkes of Vogue last year as DSM celebrated its tenth year in London, “We want to make DSM stronger and stronger and more and more exciting, not only as a retail experience but also as a place for conversation, the sharing of ideas – where accidental synergies can arise, where people can interact openly and see the possibilities of being different.” The report also revealed that DSM London will move from Dover Street (hence the name) to a larger space in Haymarket, south of Piccadilly Circus.

Unlike other multi-label stores such as Colette in Paris, DSM does not attract in large numbers the tourist crowd or those who visit solely because they need to partake in what is perceived as cool. DSM Tokyo, for example, is in touristy Ginza, right behind the equally touristy Uniqlo (a 12-storey flagship), but it draws mostly those who know its precise appeal and what can be gleaned from it. Mr Joffe told us that the London store is the best-performing (the Evening Standard reported a £13.2 million in sales last year) and “Ginza is coming up fast”. While DSM has largely kept it within admirers of its indie vibe and aesthetics that are not always comprehensible, its main store Comme des Garçons has unfortunately become a victim of its own success. At the Aoyama flagship in December last year, one of our correspondents who was there reported what he saw: “It was shocking. The crowd—yes, crowd—didn’t look like the typical customers; they were scrambling to buy—mostly from the Play line. The store was in a mess: clothes laid in a pile, a few strewn on the floor. It didn’t look like a CDG store if you only saw who were in it.”

CDG AW 2015 in storeComme des Garçons autumn/winter collection now in the store at The Shopping Gallery, Hilton Singapore. 

In the last eight years or so, the CDG signatures of colour-blocking, mixed media, and pattern-clash have gone quite mainstream, and can be seen across many price points. CDG has so successfully positioned itself as the forerunner of edginess that anyone who wants to be seen as cool, rather than individualistic, adopts the brand compulsively. At that Friday night party, one of the attendees was Vernon A, one half of the Muttons in the Morning on Class 95. Accompanied by a female, he strutted his stuff wearing an untucked white shirt with CDG emblazoned across his chest—the marker-stroke font of the ‘C’ and ‘G’ outlined with shell buttons. Even with the obvious branding, there was nothing characteristic of CDG in his entire look. Style was sacrificed for misguided cool.

Despite the risk of CDG achieving critical mass (that’ll dismay its dare-to-be-different fans), more of the brand will be welcomed in Singapore, especially when the single store here is known for its rather conservative buying (in comparison with, say, Hong Kong). We asked Mr Joffe if there might be a DSM Singapore and he replied by enquiring, “Do you think it’ll work here?” Our answer was in the affirmative, and he said, “There is a possibility of working with a local party.” That was encouraging to hear. Asia’s only DSM outside Tokyo is in Beijing, and that was put together in partnership with Hong Kong’s I.T Group (hence the name I.T Beijing Market). A DSM Singapore would make it Southeast Asia’s very first, and show that alternative retail concepts can work on our shores. At the moment, it is logical that Club 21 could be that “local party” since it has been the official CDG distributor and stockist for SEA. Club 21 Singapore Market, there’s an oddly appealing ring to it.

Before we could explore that possibility with him, Adrian Joffe was, again, led away by his minder. Just as he turned to go, he left us with a fascinating parting shot: “See you in Dover Street Market Singapore!”

Photos (except indicated): Jim Sim