Jeremy Scott has not lost his sense of humour and fun even when prices around us rise, and rise
With kids’ play things for the pool, Jeremy Scott shows he can do a theme, stick to it and do it well. Just as Karl Lagerfeld was able to expand on one idea into a collection for Chanel, Mr Scott is adept at taking just a single object and work it into myriad looks for Moschino that are incredibly fun. This is Milan’s best un-serious collection with some seriously good tailoring. Mr Scott makes really nicely proportioned clothes, and with much delicious humour and wit. Almost no designer has been able to make us smile this much when watching the presentation. We keep thinking he’s possibly the cleverest, let’s-not-take-fashion-too-seriously designer today.
As one stylist said to us, “What’s refreshing is that the clothes don’t look slutty.” Mr Scott was possibly enjoying himself so much to think of what might appeal to a tart. To be sure, he has largely kept to the lady-like, body-skimming aesthetic of Franco Moschino. As much as this was tramping high-camp territory, Mr Scott did not, as we see, execute a flashy swan dive into the swell of pool floats. The frolicking was measured, with the clothes not overwhelmed by the unlikely blow-up additions or appendages. But still, it is easy to marvel at how those inflated pieces are worked into the garments as a cheeky commentary on how things are vastly inflated these days, not just prices of consumables.
At Moschino, inflatable (via the included rubber mouthpiece) are pockets, necklines, lapels, peplums, welts (of pockets), cuffs, and hems. Wearable are puffed-up ring-sashes, shoulder straps, dolphin engageantes (false sleeves). There is even a cape formed by the word ‘party’; the left arm goes through the counter of the letter ‘P’. The vinyl pieces work with both solids and prints, which became increasingly riotous towards the end of the presentation. But regardless of the cute appendages and the tubular hoops that girdle various parts of the body, the clothes are themselves rather serious tailoring and dressmaking that recall an age when both were conceived with deep regard for the body and fit. No blind following of skin-baring and the ridiculously oversized.
Having a bit of fun has never done any harm to fashion, and Jeremy Scott has no qualms providing some mirth that is not at odds with the nearly 40-year-old Moschino. Even the models sashayed down the runway with a fountain in the middle as if they too were enjoying themselves, some hamming it up to go with the camp of a few gowns and their attendant blow-up play things. It is not known if the final garments available in the stores next year will come with these extraneous inflatables. And if they do, what would the use of that much long-life plastic really mean, fun as they are?
Screen shot (top): moschino.com. Photos: gorunway.com