Double The News, Twice The Buzz

One is a rumour, the other a confirmation. Together they rattle what would have been post-fashion-week lull

It happened almost at the same time. Two announcements in a day: Hedi Slimane is rumoured to be going to Giorgio Armani and Kim Jones is confirmed to be installed at the Chinese brand Bosideng (波司登). Just two weeks after the dust has settled over both Milan and Paris fashion weeks, the industry is once again jolted with the installation of creative director at fashion brands. Mr Slimane and Mr Jones are still considered two of the most relevant and bankable designers in contemporary luxury fashion, one an uncompromising visionary, the other a commercial strategist. Together, they represent two poles of fashion’s future: radical reinvention and strategic globalization.

Even though Armani has denied the rumours, Slimane’s name being floated signals how much weight he carries. His tenure at Celine was credited for pushing its annual revenue from an estimated €400 million to nearly €2.6 billion by 2023, proving he’s not just a stylist, as is the common perception, but a brand architect. If he were to join a legacy house like Armani, he’d likely inject a dose of youth culture, sharp tailoring, and indie-music-scene cool that could radically modernise the brand’s somewhat staid image. Apparently Mr Slimane has already moved to Milan. And there was speculation that he had spent the last year working with Giorgio Armani himself in preparation for the succession. Whether it’s Armani or another house, Slimane’s next move will be watched like a hawk.

Mr Jones’s confirmed appointment at the nearly 50-year-old Bosideng—for their new luxury line Areal—is seen as a “power move”. He’s known for blending streetwear with luxury, and his work at Dior Men and Fendi shows he is amenable to marrying heritage to hype. Bosideng, a Chinese outerwear giant with a European office in London, is aiming to go global, and Jones is the ideal bridge. He will likely elevate technical wear into high fashion, possibly creating a new category of “executive streetwear” that’s boardroom-ready but runway-worthy. After the news broke, the share price for Bosideng International Holdings Limited reportedly surged over 7% during intraday trading in Hong Kong. As Western houses grapple with legacy and reinvention, Chinese brands like Bosideng are moving rapidly to go viral on a planetary scale. For Kim Jones, a clear shot at the luxury prize, again.

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