The Weight Of Beige

Melania Trump’s neutral suit navigates a military parade’s political crosscurrents and global conflict

Earlier this morning (our time), Donald Trump got his much-talked-about parade. Although rain dampened the turnout, troops matched, some strolled, past and tanks and what has been described as “armaments of the future” rolled by to the seeming delight of the president. As he watched under a massive shelter, soaking in the glorious power projection, about 10,000 kilometres away, a drone and missile warfare was unfolding for the third day between Israel and Iran that Al Jazeera described as “heavy exchanges”. Donald and Melania Trump appeared with their characteristic eager-to-be-seen-together felicity on the massive grandstand, as protesters rally from coast to coast against his immigration policies, even his presidency. Melania Trump was her usual half-smiling, composed self. She was outfitted in a minimum-fuss, pinstriped beige suit.

The suit itself is not significantly different from others she had worn, such as those from Dior. But it is the beige (some reports call it cream or ivory, as if they reflected a more sophisticated choice on the part of the wearer) that is arousing interest. The message seemed clear: neutral I am. For a military parade that, although meant to celebrate the U.S. Army’s 250th anniversary but is, in fact, to mark Mr Trump’s birthday, has been controversial, to say the least, Melania Trump was clearly saying, “no comment”. She has, throughout the two Trump terms, been largely as bleached out. In a role that has historically been very clearly defined by constant public appearances, championed initiatives, and visible engagement, her visible beige is an absence of statement, as much as her noted low profile has been.

But she did not give up on the details although she was, as far as it can be seen, without accessories. On her peak-lapel, double-breasted jacket were silver buttons that could be read as a subtle, almost indiscernible, nod to the Army Service Uniform (ASU), typically worn on formal occasions. Those metallic dots are clearly discreet when seen against Kristi Noem’s army green, reimagined fatigue of a dress. The first lady’s suit is, according to The New York Times, designed by her current go-to Adam Lippes, who also created the navy coat-dress that she wore with that intrusive hat at her husband’s inauguration in January. The silhouette is suitably structured without looking stiff, and the calf-length skirt, not as constricted as a pencil skirt, lent a suitably conservative touch to the sum effect. Melania Trump knew how to stand in contrast to her husband’s predictable navy bulk and the signature, flaccid red tie.

The calculated nature of her fashion choices is rarely doubted. When words often failed her, Mrs Trump used fashion to communicate her thoughts as effectively as—if not more than—many of her predecessors. But the deliberate, calculated choice of beige as stark neutrality ironically drew attention to the frankly disturbing visual of a leader enjoying a large-scale domestic military display amidst homeground protests and actual global conflict, even when she likely did not have a choice to sit out the potentially negative optics. Amid already angry reactions to Donald Trump’s insistence on a parade, it could be perceived as indifference. A light colour in her unfortunate surroundings of political theatre still carried a heavy weight.

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