The former Valentino designer takes over the role Demna Gvasalia vacated

Pierpaolo Piccioli at his last Valentino show in 2024. Screen shot: valentino/YouTube

He has been definitely in the running. Now, it is official. Kering has just announced that Pierpaolo Piccioli shall be take the creative reigns at Balenciaga. He will be in charge of the womenswear, menswear, and accessories, as well as the couture that predecessor Demna Gvaslia has successfully brought back from a deep sleep. Mr Gvaslia is heading for Gucci, where he is tasked with the monumental rebirth of the brand that has been in the doldrums since Alessandro Michele left for Valentino. The musical chairs of fashion is now really a merry-go-round.

In an official statement, Balenciaga describes Mr Piccioli as “an accomplished and respected designer, and master of Haute Couture” and that he “will bring his unique creative vision and extensive experience to Balenciaga, building on the strengths and success achieved by the brand over the past decade under Demna’s creative direction, and in continuity with the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga and of the historic Parisian House.” Mr Gvasalia was transferred to Gucci, and whether his move is by choice or under corporate reshuffling is not clear.

Balenciaga certainly needed fresh (cleaner?) air following the controversies that have somewhat marred the label. In fact, after ten years of Mr Gvaslia’s dark vision for Balenciaga, fuelled with the dregs of streetwear—even if elevated to luxury—that became repetitive in the last three years, it is not certain how Piccioli’s romantic (sometimes too frothy) and colorful aesthetic will translate at a house totally and dramatically transformed under Demna who was advocate of a certain subversive and often ironic approach to design. The fashion world is no doubt spinning.

Updated: 20 May 2025, 7am