This time, in a “strategic partnership for inclusive design competition ‘Every Body Matters’”

It appears that Singapore Fashion Council (SFC) is casting aside the annual Singapore Stories competition (which have become less so in the last two years) for something else with a more global flavour. They have just announced a new design competition Every Body Matters. The name is all-encompassing enough. Still, SFC stated in a media release that the “exciting new initiative [is] aimed at promoting diversity and inclusion in fashion”. In addition, the competition is “an innovative platform that seeks to empower emerging fashion designers to create collections that celebrate and reflect the diversity of the world we live in”. The trending idea also “encourages” participants “to challenge conventional notions of beauty and style, by creating designs that embrace every body type and ability”, even if “every” is a tall order. The competition is opened to “emerging fashion designers and industry professionals from around the world.” SFC is casting its net far much wider than they ever have.

This “groundbreaking competition”, as SFC CEO Zhang Ting Ting, described it, is presented in partnership with Shein, the ultra-fast fashion e-commerce site. This is not the first time that SFC has worked with Shein. In 2023, Shein was the “Gold Sponsor” of the council’s Be the Change Summit. It is not known how much or what Shein sponsored back then. Or, if the current “strategic partnership” involves the monetary. It is interesting and notable that despite Shein’s less than sterling industry reputation, SFC is willing to offer them marquee billing. When we asked around, we were told that SFC is, once again, working with “extremely limited” funds and that seeking corporate sponsorship is not only “strategic”, it is vital. One industry veteran asked: “when did they ever have the money?” But why Shein, a company still known for its unconventional industry practices? A fashion brand owner told us, “because if anyone has money, it is Shein.”

It is interesting, that despite Shein’s less than sterling industry reputation, SFC is willing to offer them marquee billing

In its description of Shein, the SFC media release noted that the online retailer is “headquartered in Singapore”. Perhaps that is good enough reason to partner with them. SFC would like to be seen as supportive of those fashion companies that have chosen to base their operations here. We have often been asked if Shein is, then, a Singaporean company. That is a nuanced question (and SFC has never referred to it as such), but legally headquartered here and for many legal and regulatory purposes, they could be seen as a Singaporean company. Most industry veterans we spoke to, however, would not go as far as to call Shein a “Singaporean brand”, since its business reality is far more complex than it appears. For starters, their operational footprint: The company’s far-flung supply chain and a significant part of its workforce are in China. This potentially smudges Shein’s national corporate identity, even when it is almost always referred to as a “Chinese brand”.

What’s in it for SFC to be aligned with Shein, an ultra-fast fashion brand that is such an antithesis to what is key to a design competition: design? We can only hazard a guess. SFC desires to be associated with a global brand with vast market access and a base of customers that are young. Despite controversies surrounding the brand that has not really quelled, Shein’s rapid growth and market share make them an attractive partner. It is, however, unclear if SFC weighed the potential risks. Shein has garnered considerable concerns internationally about their labour practices and the environmental impact of producing so much clothes using cheap fabrics and trims, as well as the safety of their products. And the potential PR risks SFC may attract due to the negative publicity Shein tends to attract. One HK-based textile specialist commented: “Shein has the worst ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) policies in the industry.” SFC said of the competition: “It aims to spotlight the importance of representation, proving that fashion doesn’t have to conform to a single shape, size, or identity—it fits every shape, every size, every identity.” Including Shein is, therefore, inclusive.

Illustration: Just So