…with a cringey collection. Is the brand readying itself to be sold to whoever wants it by celebrating its tired house codes?

Even the best brands have lull seasons. Versace, however, never allows that, frequently amping up what is already considered a high-octane house aesthetic. For this season, Donatella Versace tucked into what her brother left behind with total abandon. It was an unashamed dig into the archives and presented to delight diehards. The show opened with what was a clear reference to the late Richard Avedon’s images for the house featuring models nearly naked frolicking or wrapped in the brand’s comforters. Ms Versace created three looks that featured what could be discards from the hotel chain Palazzo Versace. We weren’t sure if it was the lighting of the show or the state of the fabrics used, but there was a faded quality about them. The gaudy prints were unmistakable. You couldn’t have asked for more Versace than this.

Staged in a disused tram station in the north of Milan, with a very long runway, the show was Ms Versace’s further attempt at ensuring that the brand’s unmistakable flamboyance would be deeply embedded in popular consciousness, not just hip-hop obsession. This was the total antithesis of quiet luxury. Not that Versace has ever articulated by not shouting. But there were days when the pitch was more measured. This was not one of them. Those colour-saturated Versace prints that were never ever put aside were back with a vengeance, and the garish silk shirts that once made the brand very famous and a lot of money were revived. Singer Dick Lee, an avid collector till this day, shall, no doubt, be rushing out to buy them by the dozens.

Versace has been in the news of late, but not for any groundbreaking fashion. Reportedly, owner Capri Holdings (also with stakes in Michael Kors) is putting it up for sale. Why it acquired Versace in the first place is not quite clear. But what raised eyebrows some weeks back was the rumour that the Prada group was interested in buying. Nobody could understand how Versace would sit comfortably in the Prada stable. When she was asked backstage after the fascinating Prada show last week about the rumoured Versace acquisition being on the table, Miuccia Prada reportedly replied, “Isn’t it on everybody’s table?” And then there was the chatter that OTB—owner of Diesel—had expressed interest, so has the Qatari investment firm Mayhoola, with Valentino and Balmain in their hold. It is amazing that Versace is so desirable. For doubters, Ms Versace put out what she called—rather uninmaginatively—‘Versace Superheroes’.

“Our house codes are recognized all over the world and make us so strong,” she expressed in the show notes. If strength in the refashioned comforters did not ensnare, there were tops and gowns in their signature chainmail, just in time for the Academy Awards this weekend. Or, clothes in the form dalliances with cowboy wear. Especially flashy were those studded collar tips now enlarged to form pockets or pocket-flaps for both men and women. The same studded treatment appeared on the chest to form overwrought patterns on T-shirts that recall those once extremely popular with mainland Chinese tuhao (土豪 or unsophisticated nouveau riche). The thing about Versace is their remarkable tenacity in leaning towards Bengdom and Lian-land. Perhaps, that is why many firms are rushing to own it.

Screen shot (top): Versace/YouTube. Photos: Versace