The designer is leaving the brand that bears his name

It is not often that a designer would walk away from a brand that he or she has built, especially after decades of keeping the business alive. The first that comes to mind is Jil Sander and second Tom Ford. Another is from even more recent times: Dries van Noten. Joining them in that special pantheon is Phillip Lim (林能平, Lin Nengpin). The Cambodian-Chinese American has just announced that he will step down as the creative director of the brand he co-founded in 2015 with CEO Wen Zhou (周绚文, Zhou Xuanwen). Ms Zhou is reportedly staying with the brand in the role she has taken and will be its sole proprietor, according to WWD. Neither has commented on who will take over Mr Lim’s position as the creative head.

In a statement to WWD, both said: “It is with great respect and gratitude for each other and our long partnership that we have decided to part ways at 3.1 Phillip Lim.” No reason for the professional separation was offered, which has led to the chatter that there was a fallout between the two. While “partnership” was mentioned, there was no reference to their friendship, known in the industry to be loyal. The statement appeared to try a tad too hard to state that everything has been fine. No rivalry, no animosity. It continued: “This moment marks a natural turning point for both of us, each with new goals and different visions for the future.” The future of 3.1 Phillip Lim?

Phillip Lim corner at Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong. Photo: Perrier Cheng for SOTD

Back in 2020, Mr Lim told Forbes China about his working relationship with Ms Zhou: “We not only have the same cultural background, but also have a deep friendship based on values, respect and differences. Most importantly, my partner respects my enthusiasm and what I am good at. We will not all do creative work. She understands the role she should play very clearly. As for the role played in the brand, Wen is responsible for all operations of the brand, and I am responsible for all creative parts.” The distinction of roles seemed to have worked in their favour, until now. The sudden departure of Phillip Lim from his own company will only fuel speculations on the circumstances that led to his stepping down.

At his now last season, spring/summer 2025, shown in New York last September, Mr Lim showed what, to us, was his most accomplished collection so far, although we did hope that he would be more decisive in playing down the American sportswear vibe of the some of the pieces. And as well fan off the more-than-a-whiff of Self Portrait (those laces dresses!) or Junya Watanabe (those camouflage patch-ons!). 3.1 Phillip Lim has always teetered on the edge of the too-cool, but he does try to imbibe his clothes with more design elements that are technically interesting, unlike many of his contemporaries, for whom pretty clothes languishing until they are picked up by a POTUS are good enough. It is possible that the other half of the partnership is not too pleased with where he is taking the label that now, more than ever, is in need of an aesthetical boost and image upgrade.

Screen shot: 3.1 Phillip Lim/YouTube