Who’s going where, according to the grapevine? Fashion Weeks aren’t Fashion Weeks if attendees are not burning with curiosity about movements of creative heads. But, this time, there are really no surprises

It is just business as usual. Paris has been agog with speculations this RTW season: who will be installed in which vacant position, or those soon to be? Four contenders are being talked about at shows and between them: Jonathon Anderson, Glenn Martins, Simon Porte Jacquemus, and Daniel Lee. Two British, two French, all ready to move to bigger houses. The proverbial game of musical chairs is more watched than ever. While tenures at houses are getting shorter (five years or less), the majority in this quartet have held to their post for a relatively long time. Only Daniel Lee’s employment at Burberry is short: two years. At stake are personal reputation, career longevity, earth-shattering collections, and, perhaps more important, the glory of the maison and its continued ability to make more money. Who isn’t devouring the rumours?

Just last week, Cathy Horyn, in her review of the Loewe show for The Cut, shared that the rumour in the capital city has been that Jonathan Anderson would be moved by LVMH to Dior. That Maria Grazia Chiuri may have to vacate her seat has been the main speculation since it was rumoured that John Galliano would be returning to Dior after the end of his contract with Margiela. LVMH, owner of Loewe and Dior, has not responded to the shots in the dark, but after Ms Horyn wrote, “My bet, as long as people in Paris are speculating about fashion’s musical chairs, is that Anderson is in line for Dior”, the noise is getting louder about Mr Anderson’s possible jump. The hope for Mr Galliano’s returning to the French house he made very famous is fading.

“My bet, as long as people in Paris are speculating about fashion’s musical chairs, is that Anderson is in line for Dior”—Cathy Horyn, The Cut

But it is still possible that the contract negotiations between Mr Galliano and Only The Brave, owner of Margiela, may not work out. If he parts ways with Margiela, it is likely that his colleague, Glenn Martens, who left Y-Project recently, after an 11-year tenure, could head to Margiela. Mr Martens is the creative director at Diesel, another OTB brand, and his willingness to go to Diesel was said to be a move to allow him to wait in the wings. A lateral move, if it is not mere conjecture, makes sense. Those who follow his work at Y-Project, would concur that Mr Martens wouldn’t be out of place at Margiela. In Paris, rumblings across the English Channel are also heard. Apparently Daniel Lee is speaking to Jil Sander for a possible position. Luke & Lucie Meier have not offered a hint that they are unhappy at Jil Sander, but they have been with the brand since 2017. It is not out of the ordinary that they might wish to pursue something else. Mr Lee could find Jil Sander very seductive since, unable to give Burberry the dramatic turnaround that the British brand asked for, he might wish to move.

Which leaves us with Chanel. Former creative director Virginie Viard’s departure is still a mystery. She left in huff, as it was said, and she has not issued a statement regarding her departure. Nobody knows what she is doing as of now. Chanel is clearly operating rudderless. Their upcoming spring/summer collection will still be designed by a mysterious Fashion Creation Studio. But for months now, word has leaked that Simon Porte Jacquemus has been “going in and out” of the Chanel corporate office. It is not certain that he is so friendly with the maison that he could have such easy access. Among the initial names bandied about to be right for Dior, Mr Jacquemus’s did not appear as often as others did, such as Hedi Slimane, Marc Jacobs and Phoebe Philo. But his relative youth may be in his favour. In this highly employable quartet, we sense one gripe coming: why all white men?

Illustration: Just So