The ultra-fast Chinese fashion brand has erected a temporary retail space, a mere 3.6 kilometres from their Singapore office. And buy you may

We will be the first to admit that while we have been fascinated by Shein’s popularity, especially among influencers, we have never seen the clothes up front. Sure, we have visited the website, which could pass off as an online bazaar, but we have never had any physical contact with their merchandise. We have seen people wearing their clothes, but we have not been close enough to examine them. So, it was with equal doses of thrill and wariness that we went to the recent Shein pop-up, erected at the atrium of Plaza Singapura this week. This was not just a retail opportunity for the brand, it was a brand-building exercise too. And nothing was more image-affirming than a fashion show. The brand put up what was touted as the “1st ever (sic) fashion show in Singapore” and they hailed it as a “success”. It is not clear if by that they meant the attendance (which included senior minister of state Sim Ann, Vogue EIC Desmond Lim, and never-constipated influencer Koh Boon Ki) or the sales following the show.

The presentation was staged on the first day of April, after noon. It was amazing that although it was essentially a mall show, Shein was able to attract guests that included ambassadors (were they those that Shein referred to as “key invitees”?) to witness their offerings of the season, worn by what the brand called “SHEINfluencers” and “BeSHEINmodels”. The show was conceived to salute “diversity, inclusivity (a model that could strut and do a split on the runway?), and fashion for all”, as Shein proudly proclaimed on Instagram. There was a company D&D vibe to the proceedings—the runway participants attired in their once-a-year party best. Or, fast-fashion fineness. Although Shein is reputed to follow prevailing trends steadfastly, the models in crowd-pleasing, TikTok-ready clothes hardly communicated what indeed the trends were that the brand was eagerly promoting, or hoping to sell in massive numbers.

But it was the pop-up that we were really interested in. Occupying almost the entire central atrium of the mall, the space was surprisingly only about half filled with racks of clothes. When we looked at the event from level two of the mall, it seemed enticing, but when we returned the day after the show for a closer look at the popular brand’s offerings, the set-up, with the parallel racks jammed with clothes, appeared no different from a factory outlet. It was rather late in the afternoon, and it was not as packed as we thought it would be. At the entrance, there was a queue to play a spin-and-win game. Beyond that, there were few shoppers. (A week later, we would learn that “hundreds lined up at the Shein pop-up store in Vancouver”. It couldn’t be more contrary here.) To be sure, the generous space and the lack of a jostling crowd made the shopping rather comfortable. But sadly, the same cannot be said about the clothes.

Shein is often considered cheap (not just affordable). And they look it. Very few pieces—and we mean very—were made in comfortable fabrics, which meant that anything in cotton, for example, was really rare. All the pieces we touched had a hand feel that brought ouch to our lips. Many of the styles were in fabrics that were either too thick or too prickly. And finishing was such an afterthought that it was hard to ignore some of the slip-ups, such as warped seams and loose threads on necklines. To make the clothes even less appealing, nothing was pressed—even blazers and their lapels escaped the heat of the iron. We had to remind ourselves not to expect the sky when Shein prices were rock-bottom. Apart from the merchandise, for some reason, the tall racks on which the merchandise were hung did not allow the average-height shoppers to appreciate them at eye level. A woman complained to her shopping companion that her arms, stretched upwards, were tired from going through the clothes.

Contrary to what we had expected, actual purchase could be made on the spot (and there was no queue at the check-out!). This was not a mere showroom in which one selected what one desired and then bought the items online. This was see and snag. And you’d have to grab, especially if a haul is the plan. A staffer helpfully informed us that whatever we saw on the rack—a reported 10,000 items (including accessories, menswear, and kid’s clothes)—was all there was at that time (no other colours or sizes) and they didn’t remain hung for long. We heard a shopper, with about four pieces of clothing draped on her right forearm, telling her unburdened friend that they should come back another day as she was told that the “stocks are changed and replenished daily”. Given what was put out for sale, was there any chance that there could be more irresistible merchandise in store?

These were clothes for whom the word ‘outfit’ is too long—‘fit’ is better, even if the clothes might not. So there was no objection to what were shortcuts to appealing and durable clothing. Shein’s widely-reported production problems had not left them, but they did not seem to bother or deter those who were lured to the clothes the way stray cats would be delighted with scraps. Whether the garments were made by underpaid workers or with synthetic fabrics that would not decompose, the lure is in the low prices than the routes and methods to the extreme bargain. There could be the awareness of the need for sustainability, but not necessarily a demand for clothes that take that quality into consideration. In 2019, Shein chose to be headquartered here than in China. But they can’t shake off the production and sourcing links to the motherland. Or its reputational infirmity. At Plaza Singapura that afternoon, we did not see a Shein for a better, fashionable world.

Updated: 13 April 2024, 15:30

Shein Pop-Up is at Plaza Singapura, 1—7 April 2024. Photo: Chin Boh Kay